you may notice on this 10 year old Ultra Hinge located on the Gulf Coast in Alabama, The attachment is to a post. Imagine attaching to a masonry substrate. You have four very specific locations for masonry screws to attach a flat plat (that must be vertical, or it throws gate alignment off) 1/16th of an inch out of plumb magnifies on a gate to be a major problem. Plus, if a fastener is ever so slightly over tightened, it loses its strength. In most installations you have little to no choice as to the specific location of these plates that are part of the "male" side of the hinge component.
Many dealers use the following approach for this reason....
Getting a full post as close to column or wall requires calculation to be deducted before ordering gates... This can be challenging since it is sometimes difficult to precisely judge how close the post will be due to wall/column irregularities, out of plumb walls or columns, or footer locations.
As shown here, the top detail of a set of columns was modified to allow posts to be set far enough apart to make the gate dimensions that were used during ordering work. This still leaves the posts to do all the "heavy lifting" and does not take advantage of the residual strength of the columns or walls for gate support.
I prefer the following installation technique:
This allows for the Ultra Hinge Plate on the "male" side to be attached metal to metal and can even be through bolted with lock washer and nut or nylock nut on the back side of "C" post that is integrated into the wall/column and has multiple, strategically located masonry attachment creating what I refer to as the "piano hinge approach", many screw taking the place of just a few.
Notice how the top portion of this column/wall is a smooth CMU block while the lower third is a decorative CMU block with no flat surface to mount the plate to. Plus the column mounting of the plates would create attachment points on different planes. This can be adjusted with our adjustable Ultra Hinges, but will limit future adjustability and still not be as pleasing to the eye as an integrated "C" post.
The next question I get is - "Isn't this a lot more work?"
Actually it is far quicker and less expensive than setting a post next to a column, which usually means busting through part of the footer for the column (which will weaken the column).
It is FAR, FAR easier than trying to make these plates mount precisely where they have to be. Sometimes folks that mount the plate to the wall/column get lucky and everything works out, but more often than not, it becomes an arduous task.
With a carpenters pencil and level you can mark the column where it needs to be.
Identify the best locations for masonry screws, (usually two near bottom, two near top and two every two-three feet in between). Then locate you Ultra Hinge Mounting Plate location and verify by matching with gates welded female side of hinges.
Note/Tip: I like to use a Stainless Steel Machine Bolt and cut washer with a Nylock type nut and through bolt.
Then I use a $15 diamond imbedded blade (used by tile installers) to cut a trench 1/4-1/2" deep where I made my marks for the "C" post to column/wall interface. Try to make depth fairly uniform.
Then I pay out/apply bituminous (roofing) caulk into the grooves I have cut (sparingly).
Note/Tip: silicone, lexel or even latex will work in a pinch.
Then, as a final step you attach masonry screws through the holes you drilled to mark your column/wall for hammer drilling, and tighten by hand with socket to prevent over-tightening.
Note/Tip: Order touch-up paint to match gate and pre-paint SS plate machine bolts and masonry fasteners so they will blend in seamlessly.
I like the Tapcon brand and always use the hex-head variety, so I can use a socket to tighten by hand and not strip-out the hole in masonry.
These would NOT be recommended for attaching the mounting plate directly to the masonry substrate. They are more than sufficient when used with "C" posts and cost a fraction of larger masonry fasteners (shown below).
I hope this is helpful. I believe it is the fastest, easiest, strongest, most durable and best looking way to hang a gate from a column or wall.
Darrin Jones
Regional Sales Manager Southwest USA
and all of Latin America and Caribbean
Ultra Aluminum Mfg., Inc. and
Ultra Access Controls, Inc.
(256) 214-0633 cell
(951) I M ULTRA or 468-5872 Google Voice
1-619-374-7064 eFax |
www.ultrafence.com
4 comments:
I think that fencing adds a ton of value to a home. I am hoping to get industrial fencing placed around my home this summer. Would anyone happen to know where I should look in Chicago? http://www.mwfence.com/products.htm
I used to work for a commercial fencing company, and it was the hardest job I've ever hard. I learned a ton though, and I was able to see why having a nice quality fence is important. It's worth investing good money into in order to protect your home and keep it safe.
http://www.centralfenceco.com/chain-link-fences.html
Some of these fences are really cool. I like that one with the tree. I think it would be really cool to have one. My own fence is falling apart. It's old and wooden, and it doesn't seem like it's going to make it. http://www.mwfence.com/products.htm
Darrin, I'd love to see the photos, but they won't load for me. Can you check them in Blogger and see what's up? We offer some pretty unique solutions for mounting hinges and latches between posts/pillars as well. I wanted to see how ours stack up!
Hope all is well
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